Started at the fuel pump because I changed it recently. Installed both today.ģ- Just got new zzp header and my exhaust back from JET-HOT and installed. Order new maf housing with straightener and MAF sensor.
#She goblin zip code
Helped a little bit, still was taking 3 attempts to get it to start.Ģ- Have been getting a code for the mass air flow sensor. The old pump was only putting 40lbs key on, engine off. Not sure if this is your issue, but try it.ġ- Installed a new fuel pump 2 weeks ago after some testing of the old one. If it turn the key on, wait 3 seconds for the fuel pump to get up to pressure and stop pumping, then turn the key to crank the engine, it starts every time.
If I turn the key to crank the engine before the fuel pump gets up to pressure, my engine won't start. but I hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key. I am guessing there is a check valve that has failed in my fuel system. This summer my fuel system stopped keeping pressure when the engine is turned off. Had to drain fuel out of my guage set afterwards. I used my AC guages to monitor my fuel pressures for a quick test.
#She goblin zip full
My engine runs 59-63 PSI fuel pressure, only dipping slightly under full throttle. You local auto part supplier can probably loan you a fuel pressure guage for free. Not sure if this is your issue, but try it. If I turn the key on, wait 3 seconds for the fuel pump to get up to pressure and stop pumping, then turn the key to crank the engine, it starts every time. Not sure what that means, or even if it is significant. I see your long term fuel trims are indicating your engine is wanting to run rich at low manifold pressure (20 - 50% of atmospheric or 3 to 7 lbs/in^2), so the LTFT are near -20. Do you have a wideband logged? I am only seeing the stock narrowband. Jay, I took a look at your xmas log file. So it looks like I am going to have to pull the R/R so I can install. While cleaning up the garage today, noticed it on one of the old shafts. Needless to say, when I got the new shafts I did not realize this was a thing. So it appears transfer case out out shaft seal that goes on the right cv shaft. Tied in at the BCM using a fuse adapter to have key on power.Īnother few steps forward and 1 step back. Ran the power wires to the AEM air/fuel meter.
#She goblin zip zip
Still need to drill holes to be able to zip tie in place. Notched the footwell cover to clear the clutch master cylinder and clutch and brake hoses.
Op-check of the passenger heated seat checked good. Installed the passenger seat, bolted both seats down. Went rather smooth, the far back two were a little harder, self imposed due to having the rear bulkhead already installed. Tapped the tunnel and ran allen screws to secure the tunnel cap. For the most part I feel I have the steering wheel pretty centered and tracks pretty good in the neighborhood. My toe plates didn’t get here yet, so I am just kinda eyeballing it. L/F had to turn the heim joint out about 2 1/2 turns, R/F had to turn 1 1/2 turns out. Adjusted the front camber to the same Neg 1.5. Set the rear camber Neg 1.5 on both sides.
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